Tracing the Royal Barge Procession: A Cultural Heritage of Waterside Cities from Ayutthaya to Modern-Day Rattanakosin
“This is such a magnificent and extraordinary royal procession. It is almost certain that Egyptian pharaohs traveled down the Nile in a similar fashion. The royal procession of the Kings of Siam was highly formalized, majestic, and steeped in symbols and traditions. Its purpose was to awe viewers with the power, greatness, and righteousness of the monarch. A vision of a deity on Earth.…”
François-Timoléon De Choisy, French Ambassador o Siam during King Narai Period
The record on sacred kingship under King Narai of Ayutthaya
One piece of evidence showcasing the grandeur of the royal barge procession, a cultural heritage of Thailand inherited from the Ayutthaya Kingdom, was once witnessed by foreigners. The royal fleet used for royal water processions of Thai kings was formed from a fusion of the lifestyle deeply intertwined with the waterways of the ancient capital and the beliefs of Brahman-Hindu and Buddhist religions that spread their influence from the Indian subcontinent to Southeast Asia. It has become a proud royal tradition of the Thai people and is evident to the world.
The riverine lifestyle of old Siam, the legacy of the royal barges.
Ayutthaya, Thailand’s former capital, is located in a floodplain surrounded by rivers and canals. Boats were, therefore the principal mode of transport in this region. The people of Ayutthaya were skilled boat builders, crafting vessels for living, trade, and warfare. Ayutthaya was then known as “Sharinaw” or “Riverine Town” – a place teeming with boats, according to a Persian chronicle dating back to 1657-1765.
The riverine culture of Ayutthaya was rich in traditions, festivities, and joy during peacetime. The royal barge procession symbolized the monarch’s role in sustaining religion and morals. It also allowed the monarch to observe the city and its people. A French account details King Narai traveling by royal barge to a ceremony in Bang Pa-in. The procession was carried out in a full formation in his honor. Upon the king’s return to Ayutthaya, the festivities included musical performances and boat races by royal command.
In wartime, the royal barge procession became a critical military maneuver. It transported forces, animals, and weapons to battlefields.
The king’s phalanx of boats would comprise a large number of boats in a tight formation to reflect his might as Lord and Protector of the kingdom.
The Petch Phuang Procession
The Petch Phuang Procession was one of the grandest royal barge processions during the reign of King Narai the Great. It welcomed envoys bearing royal letters from King Louis XIV of France, transporting them from Ayutthaya to Lopburi, the second capital.
The Petch Phuang procession’s formation became a model for future royal barge processions. The royal barge was placed at the center, flanked by others like stars around the moon. The position of the barges could vary depending on the occasion and the length of the route.
Historical records like the “Album of King Narai the Great’s Royal Barge Procession” show the procession involved seven types of barges, their positions and decorative elements reflecting their roles.
Banners indicated the presence of members of the royal family.
- Royal Barge – Reserved for the monarch, royal family, or sacred items such as Kathin Robes during royal ceremonies.
- Ekachai Class Barges – Police escorts leading and following the royal barge.
- Khom Daya Class Barges – Providing security for the royal barge.
- Animal Figurehead Barges – Representing the monarch’s power and majesty.
- Chai Class Barges – Supporting pole bearers beating a rhythmic cadence to keep time.
- Sae Class Barges – Leading the procession.
- Destroyer Class Barges – Equipped with cannons for battle.
The royal barge procession in the Rattanakosin Period
During the Rattanakosin period, the barge procession tradition continued for both royal and state ceremonies. Historical records show that the coronation ceremonies for King Vajiravudh, Rama VI, and King Prajadhipok, Rama VII, featured royal barge journeys from Ratchavoradis Pier to Wat Arun.
During the fourth and fifth reigns, the kings travelled to Wat Bowonniwet Vihara, a route which passed along very small canals. It was therefore impossible to have a full formation of the procession.
During the reign of King Prajadhipok, Rama VII, the Royal Barge Procession was revived to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the Rattanakosin Kingdom.
In the reign of Rama IX, barge processions celebrated royal milestones and diplomatic events, such as the APEC Conference and the 60th anniversary celebrations of the King’s accession to the throne, helping to promote the image of Thailand as a country with a rich cultural heritage.
When King Maha Vajiralongkorn, Rama X, ascended the throne, the Royal Barge Procession formed part of the Coronation and the ceremony to present Kathin Robes. The King ensured these processions adhered strictly to tradition.
Preparations for these events involved multiple units under royal command.
The Royal Thai Navy managed the manpower, rehearsals, and maintenance of the wooden barges. The Department of Fine Arts oversaw the intricate decorations, such as lacquering, gilding and glass inlay. The Bureau of the Royal Household ensured adherence to ancient traditions in terms of royal insignia and crew costumes.
The Royal Thai Navy, in charge of the Royal Barge Procession since the ninth reign, ensured that the format conformed to model set in 1982. For the Coronation Ceremony of King Rama X, the royal barge procession was used for the state progress by water.
His Majesty assigned various offices—the Royal Office, the Bureau of the Royal Household, the Arts Division, the Department of Fine Arts, the Royal Thai Navy, and even the National Archives—to compile all relevant knowledge and create a standard for the Royal Barge Procession.
For this event, the Royal Barge Procession included 52 barges in 5 columns, spanning 1,280 meters, with 2,412 crew members.
The 4 royal barges included the Anantanagaraj Royal Barge which carried the Kathin Robes, The Suphannahong Royal Barge for Their Majesties the King and Queen, the Anekajatbhujong Royal Barge for HRH Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana Rajakanya and HRH Prince Dipangkorn Rasmijoti, and the Narayana Song Suban Rama IX Royal Barge, used as a support royal barge.
Carrying on the riverine artistic tradition
Another key element of the Royal Barge Procession is the boat song. The poem that provides the lyrics of the popular boat song dates back to the Ayutthaya period, and was composed by Prince Thammathibet. It was written in praise of the magnificence of the barge procession, the beauty of the natural landscape, the capital city as well as the traditional cuisine. It reflects the essence of a peaceful lifestyle, immersed in the arts and culture of the ages. The rhythm of the boat song has to be synchronized with the rhythm of the pole bearers who beat the cadence to help keep pace for the oarsmen.
For each Royal Barge Procession, the Royal Thai Navy is in charge of training and supervising the ceremony. A National Artist trains the singer whose voice must resonate powerfully over the water.
In addition to the singing, there is also a musical ensemble with flutes, double sided drums, metal drums, and claves that send signals to the Royal Barge Commander who has to communicate with the entire flotilla.
The Royal Barge Procession serves to reflect the glory of the monarch, both visually and aurally. It therefore requires the cooperation of the Bureau of the Royal Household, the Department of Fine Arts and the Royal Thai Navy, to ensure perfection in its artistry, music, the costumes of the crew, all of which have been carefully defined.
Photo: Santi Setsin, Royal Photographic Society of Thailand
The various barges in the procession comprise the key golden barges, such as the royal barges, the Ekachai escort barges, and the animal figurehead escort barges. These feature beautifully carved figureheads, all fully lacquered and gilded. The bows and sterns of the wooden Dang barges are also lacquered and gilded.
The hulls of the barges are made from takhian wood and teak wood because of their ideal weight and buoyancy, able to be immersed in water for lengths of time. Historical records have noted how boat builders had to learn how to carve the hull from a single tree trunk, making it as wide as possible for value and strength.
The artistry of the barges combines Brahmin, Hindu, and Buddhist influences. This was the result of Indianization that spread into Southeast Asia, bringing with it the concepts of the “Devaraja”, a Brahmin-Hindu belief of the king being Vishnu Incarnate, the Righteous Monarch.
This is reflected in the various animal figureheads on the barges, from the Suphannahong Royal Barge, the Anantanagaraj Royal Barge, the Anekajatbhujong Royal Barge and the Narayana Song Suban Royal Barge.
The swan symbolizes purity and majesty, the garuda is the vehicle of Vishnu, the naga in Buddhist iconography represents performing meritorious acts that will lead to nirvana.
There are also other animal figureheads that correspond to the Ramakien literary masterpiece, the story of Phra Ram, an incarnation of Vishnu, who helps overcome evil. It is therefore a glorification of the monarch, complemented by the Krabi or simian figureheads that represent Phra Ram’s army commanders.
Photo: Banyat Manakijlap, Royal Photographic Society of Thailand
Southeast Asian beliefs and the riverine lifestyle are deeply interwoven into these royal traditions of Thailand. Each royal ceremony is a collective tribute to the monarch’s greatness. The ultimate artistry found in royal traditions serves to inspire public traditions that are ready to evolve into the future, while retaining their roots in the past.
Photo: Songphol Thesakit, Royal Photographic Society of Thailand
The haunting sound of the boat song echoes across the water, the energetic motions of the oarsmen, and the magnificence of the royal barges culminate to highlight Thailand’s unique cultural heritage.
